“Every move felt like a struggle, and three minutes later I found myself stood on the ground, untying from my rope appearing wondering why and how it all felt so wrong?”
Classes to get GB climber Molly Thompson-Smith on the wall.
The Sky Sports Scholar opens up on her struggles at one of the greatest events around the climbing calendar because the 2020 Olympics edges closer.
“I only love to go into a competition feeling prepared and sitting on the airplane from Munich to Tokyo I felt that I was ready.
Probably the biggest event of this year, the World Championships was in Hachioji, Japan. Close to just a year prior to the 2020 Games, this occasion felt like the warm-up for most likely the largest sporting event on the planet.
Until the event could be spent training lead to Innsbruck, the facility that provides the very ideal training for it, I decided my time.
It was tough deciding if additional time acclimatising at Japan or even more time training lead in this wonderful facility could be beneficial… so I attempted to have as close to both as possible!
I prioritised world-class paths and the coaching in Innsbruck, but attempted to simulate the sleep/eating schedule I’d have to get used to.
This was somewhat difficult at the beginning, but after a couple of times I had been going to bed in the night and waking up between 4 and 5:30 in the morning, meaning I would cut the jet lag down by hours!
I felt the best I’d felt in Innsbruck, the strange sleeping and eating habits. I climbed smartly and efficiently; peaking within my elimination sets and making decisions about the wall.
I came in Japan five days earlier and settled into the new time zone with absolute simplicity.
As I only do the direct discipline, I managed to encourage my team-mates and friends in the bouldering section of the event for a few days.
I had two sessions, and felt light and floaty… I was totally surprised at how well everything was piecing together since I typically feel that the effects of extended travel and jet lag on my coordination, energy levels and finger wellbeing.
After what felt like a lifetime of observing different people compete, my qualification round eventually came. I itched to get to the wall and show myself what had come of all of the hard work I’d been putting in at home.
I felt much better and great in warm-up over the wall.
Following my first climb, I knew I had guaranteed my location in the semi-final supplied nothing went wrong.
I felt relaxed knowing I simply needed to go climbing on the second path, and did what I needed to do to progress to another round in a comfy 10th place.
The following day I felt equally as good – if not better – warming up in the isolation zone to get semis. I was amped, however relaxed. Calm, although nervous. Unsure what the path could be similar to, but prepared.
Unfortunately it had been one of those times when it just does not come.
Every move felt like a battle, and three minutes later I found myself stood on the ground, untying in my rope appearing wondering how and why it all felt so wrong?
Frankly, it was an adventure I was eager to forget and move on from as swiftly as possible. But to proceed you’ve got to accept slips and attempt to make them worthwhile by taking some advantages in addition to classes .
I wasn’t pleased with my climbing in semis, but I definitely was in qualifications. I understand I am in good shape thus need to work on being able to show it.
Now I have a few weeks until the guide World Cup season resumes in Kranj, Slovenia which is full of preparation and trainings to ensure I’ve done all I can to make sure no errors or misfortunes are replicated in the future!
As always, a big thank you for anyone for supporting me, after my journey and Sky, even if the outcome is less than desired!
Read more here: http://klosterbäckerei-lamspringe.de